Zegna Fall-Winter 2025: When Luxury Becomes Art
In a world where luxury often shouts about itself, Zegna prefers to speak in whispers. And what a whisper it is! At the last show, under the direction of Alessandro Sartori, the brand presented the Vellus Aureum (“Golden Fleece”) collection, a true manifesto of elegance, available only to 50 select clients. What a beautiful irony: the most exclusive collection is inspired by the simple green hills of Australia.
Sartori seems to have decided to rewrite the rules of Italian elegance, creating a dialog between “was” and “will be”. Imagine the low-buttoned blazers - it's as if someone has slightly violated all the canons of sartorial art, but has done it so masterfully that you want to give him a standing ovation. And those overcoats with cashfur collars? They look as if they hug the wearer without restricting his movements.
The knitwear in this collection is like the main character in an Oscar-winning movie: it is everywhere, but every appearance of it is a delight. Dense cardigans and knitted shirts tell a story of coziness that is not afraid to be luxurious. And flannel and cotton corduroy suits look like they've lived an interesting life before you even put them on.
The color palette is a separate poem. Here and the shade of fossils (who would have thought that fossils could be so elegant?), and the color of leaves, and red Gattinara - as if a glass of aged Italian wine materialized in the fabric. All this splendor is complemented by the textures of cashmere and mohair, which you just want to touch.
Sartori seems to have looked into the closet of Ermenegildo Zegna himself and decided to tell his story in a modern way. The result is something like a fashionable “Once Upon a Time in Italy”, where classic jackets meet modern silhouettes and traditional craftsmanship flirts with innovation.
Note the details: thick-soled loafers (because comfort is also luxury) and soft bags that seem to say, “Yes, I'm expensive, but I'm not afraid to be practical”.
The result is a collection where casual elegance meets impeccable quality. It's as if an Italian aristocrat decided to dress for a country walk, but couldn't resist doing it perfectly. It seems that this is what modern luxury should look like - effortless, confident and timeless.
