A highlight of Paris Fashion Week, the Dior fall-winter 2022-2023 fashion show once again took over the Jardin des Tuileries during an exceptional show... resolutely futuristic.

Situated on the cusp of Dior&rsquo;s history, on the continual pulse of fashion, Maria Grazia Chiuri&rsquo;s collections are suspended between the present and the future, beating to the rhythm of simultaneity, synchronicity, in tune with the times.

The&nbsp;Next Era* is the title of the work Mariella Bettineschi imagined for the Dior ready-to-wear fall-winter 2022-2023 show, wherein the Italian artist proposes a gallery of paintings composed of large-scale portraits of women from the history of painting from the 16th to the 19th century. Their cut up, stacked eyes question the judgment that has conditioned &ndash; and still conditions &ndash; women past and present. The gaze is reversed to suggest another reading of art history. This &ldquo;framework&rdquo; of the fashion show breathes life into Maria Grazia Chiuri&rsquo;s concepts; notably (re)constructing a performative relationship between the body and the garment in a technical, aesthetic perspective, in a succession of operations associating forms, savoir-faire, materials and futuristic technologies.

The inside of Monsieur Dior&rsquo;s garments reveals an extraordinary construction system. The Bar jacket, revisited by the Creative Director for this collection, transforms the structure of the original model into a system that regulates the body&rsquo;s humidity and warms it up if necessary, thanks to innovative techniques developed in the D-Air lab** laboratories, while a bodysuit &ndash; crisscrossed by what appears to be an organic network of colored veins and arteries in luminescent colors &ndash; maintains a constant temperature.

The Next Era is also a temporal short-circuit where the iconic Roger Vivier for Dior pump is re-appropriated through the possibilities of embroidery, an example of exceptional craftsmanship enhanced by a technical fabric yoke around the ankle. Pieces that can be worn alone or in combination &ndash; such as belts with multiple pockets, or the adjustable laced corset &ndash; complete many outfits. Designed to be infinitely versatile, these pieces celebrate a new sartorial order where even the iconic Lady Dior sees itself transformed to accommodate everyday essentials.

The skirts are also reinvented, thanks to fabrics borrowed from the men&rsquo;s wardrobe &ndash; such as grisaille &ndash; and are transformed according to the angle from which they are viewed to offer long, short, and pleated cuts. A hybrid collection that opens up unsuspected creativity through the use of embroidery, which adorns technical knitwear, waterproof materials, Nylon and cashmere. And, with a respect tinged with rebellion, the famous portrait of Christian Dior posing in front of the wall hanging that decorated his winter garden is appropriated so the latter is turned into a print that adorns a large coat while couture gloves &ndash; redolent of the biker world &ndash; climb the arm as a finishing touch to the silhouette.

This collection seeks to express the complexity of fashion that revisits heritage in order to conceive the lines of tomorrow. A journey that shapes the artifacts of a new world, another world, to be made and invented.

* The Next Era, art installation by Mariella Bettineschi. 
** D-Air lab is an Italian start-up founded in 2015 by Lino Dainese. 
Architect Silvia Dainese Gris is leading this special project for Dior.

The Next Era: futuristic Dior Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show

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