Kim Jones, an avid book collector, often paints collections based on favourite literary heroes. However, this season, the designer chose to write his own story for the Fendi Couture 2022 couture collection.

&ldquo;A fashion tale in three cities: Kyoto, Rome and Paris, and their intersection,&rdquo; the designer said, referring to the inspiration, for example, of the French craze for all things Japanese in the 20's. A show of minimalistic&nbsp;style was expressed in expensive materials in the most subtle way.

The opening 3 looks, two tailored suits and a turtleneck sweater dress with split skirts and distinctive brown knots. Only the super-rich and expert weavers in Loro Piana, Italy, realize that the special material is Vicuna, the most expensive fabric in the world from Vicu&ntilde;a camel hair, protected in the harsh Andes mountains, combed by locals in extremely small quantities. Then there's the addition of hand- sewn, seamless top with wide-leg trousers, in lighter tones made of &nbsp;calfskin, Fendi's "specialty".

The show continued with rows of delicate embroidered and sequined fabrics. Having a deep affection for the land of the rising sun, the designer flew to Kyoto as soon as the border opened, and reconnected with a silk kimono makers (Jones had repeatedly incorporated it in men's collections by Louis Vuitton and Dior).&nbsp; Kim Jones gave them pieces of kimono fabric from 1700 and asked if they could be recreated. Finally, the asymmetrical dresses presented this season for a reason. Thanks to the supplier's narrow looms and meticulous hand-printing, Jones chose to patch the fall prints into discreet gowns, while also interpreting the floral motifs through the lines. Intricate embroidery, furs or abstract patterns were represented by rolled sequins, or pale feathers caught on tulle shirts.

If all the materials sound classic and historic, this collection is bound to be brimming with a modern spirit, being Jones' most beautiful and captivating creation for Fendi to date. The intense lighting of the catwalk enhanced the colours - vibrant golds and mint greens, and transparency of the delicate latticework gowns that sparkled with crystal, paired with a cascading necklace of more than 1,000 fancy white and yellow diamonds - Fendi's first foray into Delfina's high-end jewelry line.

Jones brought back some of the "broken mirror" dresses, of Karl Lagerfeld's Fendi legacy, in 2000, and reinterpreted the "tiny" dress, in embroidered and ultra-sparkly versions. There is a rationale behind Jones' choices. He had the idea to arrange a trio of collections between Rome (Fendi's hometown), Kyoto (where replicas of 18th-century Japanese kimonos were woven) and Paris (where the famous Japonisme trend took place). With the exception of the "naked" dresses, much of the collection is completely simple and timeless with all the expensive stitching.

Fendi FW 2022 Couture

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